Alexander McQueen - Fall 2011 RTW

10.5.11


Sarah Burton definitely isn't shying away from the weight of legacy she's inherited. Her venue was La Conciergerie, Marie Antoinette's prison and the site of an Alexander "Lee" McQueen show that was made memorable by the presence on the catwalk of live wolves (doped-up wolves or perhaps just some particularly lupine dogs, but still). No such threat of danger tonight, though the crackling neon lights were a reminder of McQueen's asylum show and the theme—"The Ice Queen and her court"—had the suitably chilly ring of a vintage McQueen ritual. The collection furthermore drew on what the show notes called "heritage silhouettes."

What this all boiled down to was Burton skimming off the top of her vast reconceptualization of the house aesthetic to produce three dozen couture pieces reflecting that aesthetic at its purest. Literally. As in white-light burning bright. In the frenzied backstage press of congratulations, the designer could barely gasp one word to define her intent: "Icy." But it wasn't really that cold. What Burton designed had a blurry-edged softness, which came from the fur that lined hems, cuffs, and shoulder seams. The material wrapped the skirt of a drop-waist halterneck dress or swathed the hood of a sleeveless sheath. And when it wasn't fur, it was frayed, streaming organza that blurred the lines. (Amid such extravagant touches, you weren't likely to forget the rumor that Kate Middleton has selected the house to design her wedding gown.)

Still, these were scarcely clothes for the real world. That wasn't really the point. It felt much more like Burton wanted to remind the planet that she isn't channeling the McQueen DNA, she is the McQueen DNA. Hence, those heritage silhouettes with their buoyant trains of silk organza or undulating threads of tulle or the harnesses that evoked such deliberately troubling associations. The most (quietly) spectacular piece was a gown with a body collaged from broken china, which erupted into a froth of organza. McQueen himself might have injected an edge of barely suppressed violence into such a piece. Here, serenity ruled. Which, in the interests of future princesses everywhere, is probably a wise option.




Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Freja Beha Erichsen

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Emily Baker

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Julia Nobis

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Daria Strokous

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Kori Richardson

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Kasia Struss

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Iris Egbers

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Julia Saner

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Madelen de la Motte

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Kinga Rajzak

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Shu Pei Qin

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Anna Zimmer

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Fei Fei Sun

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Polina Kasina

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Katlin Aas

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Maddie Kulicka

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Josephine Skriver

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Valerija Kelava

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Ruby Aldridge

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Karmen Pedaru

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Zuzanna Bijoch

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear

Lisanne de Jong

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Sigrid Agren

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear

Siri Tolerød

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Mirte Maas

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Marike Le Roux

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Nimue Smit

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Patricia van der Vliet

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Anabela Belikova

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Jac

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Suvi Koponen

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Frida Gustavsson

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Krisi Pyrhonen

Alexander McQueen Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear
Sarah Burton


Source - style.com

1 Comment

  1. I simply love the white ruffled dresses.They are gorgeous :)

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